Derek McIntyre - Electronics Repair

I realize this page contains a lot of text - but read closely, as it contains information that may save
you $$$ in the long run by being able to identify your control type, symptoms, and possible repair solutions

AEROBOSS 1.6 - AEROSTEP 8 - AEROSPEED 1.6 - SAVE $$$ - GET IT REPAIRED - AEROBOSS 7 - TC5-1V6S - PHOTOHELICS - HONEYWELL CONTROLS - HIRED HAND BOARDS - STATIC PRESSURE CONTROLS - SAVE $$$ - GET IT REPAIRED - AEROTECH - AIRSTREAM - CHORE-TRONICS - MILLER CONTROLS - PRO-TECH - AGRI VENT - SAVE $$$ - GET IT REPAIRED

Identify your Aerotech or Airstream Controller FIRST! Here's how:

It is very common for folks to miscommunicate their problem and their type of controller. I get a good deal of phone calls where the customer says "I have a bad Aerostager front cover." The term "Aerostager" is a widely used term by customers to identify most every type of electronic fan control there is. "Aerostager" is not a generic name for a fan control. It is a type of product, or "model number" of a control that Aerotech marketed. Here's how to identify your controller in most hog confinement buildings if they are made by Aerotech or Airstream:

The AEROSTAGER is an 8-stage controller with two knobs - one knob for setting the temperature, and one for setting the timer fan "on time." It is rectangular in appearance, and had a red display readout that sequences through showing you the indoor temperature, outdoor temperature (where applicable), the "time on" for stage #1 fan, and the stage level. It has blue letters on a white background with nothing more than "The Aerostager Environmental Controller" written on it. It is commonly used in Browns of Carolina, Carrolls, or Murphy-Brown LLC finishing houses, breeding barns, or gestation barns.

The AEROSTEP, AEROBOSS, and AEROSPEED controllers came after the Aerostager. They have the following model numbers written on the front. These are just a few of the most common types that I see very often:

ST-4026 - Aerostep 8 - an 8-stage controller where two stages can be configured for heat. Commonly used in tunnel ventilated finishers, breeding and gestation.

ST-4026R - Same as above, only with a ramping function that smoothly transistions from minimum vent to full stage #1 as temperature increases.

ST-4026R-20 - Same as above, only the temperature settings can be set independently - there is no "stage differential." You set each stage temperature like you want it for each fan.

ST-4120 - A three-stage controller, with one variable speed and two on/off's (heat or cool) Typically seen in small farrowing rooms.

ST-4121 - A four-stage controller, with one variable and three on/off's.

ST-4124 - A seven-stage controller, with one variable and six on/off's. This is the most common controller for nurseries with 5 or more fans and one heater.

SS-4025 - A multi-stage controller with several on/off's (can't remember exactly how many), but with a curtain output which is designed for natural ventilated houses with stir fans and one minimum vent fan.

SS-4124 - Same as above, only the stage #1 control is variable speed. This one is typically used in nurseries, like the Browns of Carolina 2600 head.

The "Series 5" controllers are pretty much the same as noted above. Just replace the "4" with a "5" except on the ST-5026. There is no 5026-R or 5026-R20. It's just an ST-5026, or Aerostep 8 Series 5.

AIRSTREAM controllers have model numbers that match up to their meaning. For example, the Airstream TC4-2V4S means Temperature Controller 4-Series with 2 Variable Stages and 4 Single stages. You get the idea. Model number TC5-1V6S is a Series-5 control with 1-Variable and 6-Single speed stages. The TC4-8SD is a Series-4 with 8-Single speed stages.

Controllers I Typically Repair Listed with Photos

THE AEROSTAGER ENVIRONMENTAL CONTROLLER

Aerostager Control and Back Board

Several years ago, you may remember the Aerotech "4000" series controllers became "obsolete." Of course, the term "obsolete" means "we're coming out with something new, and we're not going to support repairs on these things anymore.." The "Aerostager Environmental Controller" falls into the same category. Although finding parts to these controls was a difficult challenge, I was able to make an agreement with a parts distributer nearby to help me obtain critical repair parts for these controls. As of right now (and now being January 2012) I am able to repair most AEROSTAGER controls, mainly found in finishing houses (hogs) and breeding barns, gestation barns, etc. I have also seen Aerostagers in nurseries, but that's rare. The most common problem with Aerostagers is the stage 1 timer fan relay sticks, or the display reads "HELP" indicating a sensor circuit problem.

AEROTECH 4000 SERIES CONTROLS

Aerotech Series "4000" Control Fronts and Backs

I am also able to repair most of the 4000 series controllers. Such controllers include:

ST-4120, ST-4121, ST-4124, ST-4025, ST-4026, ST-4026R, and ST-4026R-20. These controllers are usually known as Aerospeed, Aeroboss, or Aerostep 8 controls. The 4124's and 4026's have a master and a slave back board, and one front control board. The fronts usually go bad when select switch knobs are busted off, or the "set" knob will turn, but will not change the settings. Also, the push-button "second function" button quits working. I can repair these front boards.

The back boards normally fail with an indication of no power to the control (even when replacing the fuse), or the stage #1 on the variable speed fails (sticks on all the time, or will not work at all) Many ST-4124's will have burned SCR's, the devices on the right side of the board mounted to the black heat sink. I can repair these, too.

Just about any Aerotech control board made by Thevco, I can repair unless it's an unusual case.

NOTE - about determining whether the front board or the back board is bad - in the past I have had calls where the customers says, "I need a new front board for an Aerostep 8 controller." They assumed they needed a new front because no numbers lit up - the display was blank. This is usually the symptom of a bad back board. The back board is the low voltage power supply which gives the front 12 volts DC to operate. Front covers rarely go bad to the point where they just go blank. If in doubt, take a front cover from another house and plug it into the back board of the controller in question. If it still does not light up, then the back board is bad. Front boards usually don't just go blank. The major problems with front boards are the mechanical knobs not working or the push-button switch will not work.

AEROTECH SERIES "5" CONTROLS

Repairing an Aerospeed 1.6 back board

These are still in production. There is no more master and slave combo. These are still made by Thevco and are in a rectangular box with a hinge. Such units include ST-5120, ST-5121, ST-5124, ST-5026, SS-5124, SS-5025 and so on. Like the 4000 series, these are more well known as Aeroboss, Aerospeed, Aerostep. The same things go bad on these controls as the 4000 series, like stuck knobs, bad stage #1 relays or variable speeds, no power-up, or busted select knobs. I can repair most any 5000 series control.

AIRSTREAM SERIES 4 AND 5 CONTROLS (MODELS BEGIN WITH TC4 AND TC5)

Did you know that most Airstream and Aerotech controls are made by the same company (Thevco) ?? Well, they are. Like Aerotech, Airstream has a 4000 and 5000 series. Some of the Airstream models I repair include (but not necessarily limited to) are TC4-1V2S, TC4-1V3S, TC4-1V6S, TC4-8SD, SP-2, TC4-2V4S, TC5-1V2S, TC5-1V3S, TC5-1V6S, TC5-8SD. Just about any TC4 or TC5 control can be repaired. Check with me first before sending a control to be certain that I can repair it if you don't see it on the list.

HIRED HAND BOARDS

I am usually able to repair HIRED HAND boards as well. These are normally found in poultry houses. Hired Hand boards I can repair will vary depending on the model. For example, I can repair Evolution 3000 and 3001 boards, Vent Master 12, Vent Master 24, and sometimes even System 1000 or System 2000 boards. Symptons of problems vary, but are a usually a direct result of lightning strikes. If you have a Hired Hand board that needs to be repaired, please call and tell me the model of controller you have and the PCB number on the board.

PHOTOHELICS AND CURTAIN CONTROLS, STATIC PRESSURE CONTROLS
I have been fairly successful at repairing Photohelic back relay packs. If the front (gauge) goes bad, then I'm not able to repair it. Usual symptoms of a bad relay pack are no power-up, or the curtain control goes one way but not another. Call first and tell me what kind of control you have and exactly what the ailments are.

OTHER ELECTRONIC CONTROLS

I have been able to repair a wide variety of other "odd ball" controls, like digital thermostats, relay boards, even dialers and alarm systems. I have been successful in repairing back boards of Honeywell controls (such as a stage has gone out and needs new relays). I have been able to repair curtain drops - like the Hired Hand thermal curtain drop, and the Control-tech PD-240 drops as well. If it's out of warranty, let me look at it first before scrapping it. It may cost you way less than you think to have it repaired.

BIOSECURITY

Biosecurity, or the prevention of disease-spread from farm to farm is extremely important to me. That's why each part that comes onto my property to be repaired is set in quarantine outside the repair facility for a minimum of three consecutive days and exposed to a general disinfectant during that time. When it comes inside the shop, the product is disassembled and washed (washed, yes, even the electronics) with a disinfectant solution containing Ortho-phenylphenol, amylphenol, borax and white vinegar. The parts are raised to 190 degrees F for one hour in the washing/rinse solution to remove dirt, grime, "hog slime," and of course, any bacteria or virus on the part. They are then air dried at 150 degrees for one hour, and then placed on the bench for repairs. This ENSURES a clean operating and repair facility, passing on clean products to you. Most customers are quite surprised at how clean the product looks (and smells!) when they get it back. I have heard "this thing looks like brand new" so many times over the course of my repair "career."

After the product is repaired and tested, I send it (or them) to you via USPS. The part(s) are packaged in a plastic vacuum bag which has also been sealed and disinfected. Shipping costs are usually under $10, because I use flat rate boxes. This is amazingly cheap for shipping boards across country.

Need a board fast? I usually keep many repaired boards in stock. Just tell me what you need and I'll see if I have one. I can ship it out fast, or deliver it to you, or you can come and pick it up. I'll send you the invoice, and you send your payment, along with your OLD BOARD back to me. That cuts WAY down on turn-around time.

COST OF REPAIRS AND PAYMENT

I flat-rate repair Aerotech and Airstream boards unless it's a very unusual application. The cost to have a board, front or back, "re-worked" is $133.75 and that includes the 7% bio-security and cleaning fee, and any incurred tax, parts, labor, etc. Shipping is extra. For other boards, like Hired-Hand, Chore-tronics, etc.. Just figure on 35 to 40% of the cost of a new board, from a dealer/retailer. Costs vary, I will give you a free, fair estimate beforehand.

Payment is normally via personal check or farm account/business check. I also accept

and cash. If you need to pay via credit card, the most convenient way is to purchase a money order and send it via mail. I do not have a credit/debit card system set up (yet).

WARRANTY

I warranty parts for a period of ONE YEAR after the repair. I keep accurate records, but depend on your honesty when it comes to warranty. I have made exceptions in the past, for example, a customer wanted a board repaired, but wanted to keep it as a spare. In that case, I provided a unique "serial number" on the board and when he put it in service, he called me and let me know it was in use. Therefore, the warranty started at that particular date. I take great pride and pleasure in repairing products for hog/poultry farmers. I do honest work and feel as if I set a very reasonable price for the amount of detailed, precise and accurate work performed. I want nothing more than for you to be satisfied with your repaired product. I have many sartisfied customers who would be more than willing to testify to the quality of work that comes out of my shop and my quick willingness to resolve any conflict or issuse that may arise.

CLAIMING AS A REPAIR EXPENSE

Yes, I have a federal tax ID number set-up. I do not "horse trade" or get "paid cash under the table." I have to claim this income just as an ordinary job and have to pay taxes on this income during tax-time. My tax-ID number is on my invoice. You can claim the repair as an expense and it will cross-reference to me claiming it as income.

LIABILITY

Like any other electronic device in the world, even newly repaired products can fail and have failed. As I mentioned above, I will gladly repair (at no charge, even return shipping) your product if it fails within the first year. However, I am NOT liable for the controller failing, and causing livestock or property damage. An example would be the timer fan stage to fail and suffocate a house of pigs or chickens. You should have backups, curtain drops, alarms, etc. to provide you with adequate warning if a controller should fail. Another example would be if the controller catches fire and burns the building down. Sorry, I can't be held liable for that because I didn't actually install the board in your facility. You will see the "terms of acceptance" included with EVERY invoice that, in plain English says "if you accept and pay for this product, you automatically agree that in no way, shape, or form am I responsible for the product failing or causing damage to you or your property." With all this being said, I can tell you the truth - I have never had a control board to fail and cause livestock or property damage (that I have repaired) - but it could happen tomorrow, and I'm just trying to relieve myself the liability of that happening. In today's time, people have gone lawsuit crazy. I try to roll with honest, professional customers in hopes that some ridiculous situation never happens.

DO YOU INSTALL?

No. I do not perform labor on farms of any kind under the name "Derek McIntyre." My suggestion to you, if you want a control board replaced, removed, or installed is to contact a qualified electrician familiar with farm controls. In this area (south-eastern NC), I recommend Hog-Slat and their service technicians. Their number is 1-800-949-4647. Ask for the service department.

HOW TO CONTACT ME

As stated above, you may contact me at (910) 874-0002 during reasonable hours. If I do not answer, please leave a message and I will call you back that day or the following day. You may also e-mail at n4dbm@ec.rr.com I will respond within 24 hours.

For payment via check, I normally include a self-addressed stamped envelope for your convenience. Please remit payment only (no need to copy the invoice) to that address. If you did not receive an envelope for your payment, please send payment to:

Derek McIntyre
Attn: Electronics Repair
7348 Center Rd.
Bladenboro, NC 28320

Thank you for visiting this page. If you have any questions, please do not hesitate to call.

Sincerely,

Derek McIntyre

Agricultural Electronics Repair by Derek McIntyre

Agricultural Electronics Repair by

Derek McIntyre